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Comparison
Ceramic vs porcelain tile: differences and uses
Ceramic and porcelain tiles can look identical in the shop, but they behave differently on the floor, in wet rooms and outdoors. This guide explains the real difference, the ratings on the box and how to choose.
1. The real difference
Both are fired clay tiles, and porcelain is technically a type of ceramic tile. Porcelain is made from finer, denser clay and fired at a higher temperature, so it is much less porous. The industry definition is based on water absorption: under the American standard ANSI A137.1, porcelain tile absorbs 0.5% or less of water by weight, and the European standard EN ISO 14411 uses the same limit for its densest group (BIa).
| Property | Ceramic | Porcelain |
|---|---|---|
| Water absorption | Higher (often 3–10%) | 0.5% or less |
| Strength, wear | Good | Very high |
| Frost resistance | Usually no | Yes (check the box) |
| Cutting | Easy | Harder |
| Price | Lower | Higher |
2. Glazed and full-body tiles
Most ceramic tiles and many porcelain tiles have a glaze: a glassy, colored top layer. If a glazed tile chips, the different-colored body shows underneath. Full-body (through-body) porcelain has the same color all the way through, so chips and wear are much less visible, which suits commercial and high-traffic floors.
3. Ratings on the box
- Wear (PEI 1–5): for glazed tiles. PEI 1–2 is for walls and light traffic; PEI 3 for most home floors; PEI 4–5 for busy areas.
- Slip resistance: in Europe often shown as R9–R13 (higher is less slippery); in the US as DCOF, where 0.42 or more is recommended for level interior floors that may get wet.
- Frost resistance: needed for any tile laid outdoors in cold climates.
- Rectified edges: precisely cut edges that allow narrow grout joints.
4. Where to use each
| Area | Recommended |
|---|---|
| Bathroom and kitchen walls | Ceramic or porcelain |
| Living areas, kitchen floors | Porcelain (or PEI 3+ ceramic) |
| Shower floors | Porcelain with good slip resistance |
| Hallways, entrances | Porcelain, PEI 4–5 or full-body |
| Outdoors | Frost-resistant porcelain |
5. What changes when installing
Porcelain is harder to cut and drill: use a good tile cutter or a diamond blade, and diamond bits for holes. Because it absorbs almost no water, porcelain needs an improved, polymer-modified adhesive; ordinary adhesive for absorbent ceramic does not bond well. Large porcelain tiles also need a very flat subfloor and full adhesive coverage. How to tile a floor: a step-by-step guide covers the method, and the Tile calculator works out how many tiles and boxes to order.
Common mistakes
- Using wall-only ceramic tiles on a floor.
- Laying non-frost-resistant tiles outdoors, where they crack in winter.
- Fixing porcelain with basic adhesive meant for absorbent ceramic tiles.
- Choosing a polished, slippery tile for a bathroom or entrance floor.
- Mixing tiles from different batches, which can differ slightly in shade and size.
Frequently asked questions
Is porcelain better than ceramic?
For floors, wet areas and outdoors, usually yes because it is denser and more durable. For walls, ceramic is cheaper and easier to cut and works just as well.
How can I tell porcelain from ceramic?
Check the box for water absorption (0.5% or less) or a certification mark. The tile’s edge and back can also show a dense, uniform body.
Can ceramic tiles be used on floors?
Yes, if they are rated for floors, usually PEI 3 or higher for homes. Wall-only tiles are too soft.
Which tiles are least slippery?
Look for matt or textured surfaces with R10–R11 or higher, or a DCOF of at least 0.42.
How many tiles do I need?
Divide the area by the tile size including the joint and add 10–15% waste. The tile calculator does this and rounds up to whole boxes.