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How to build a drywall partition: step-by-step guide
A drywall partition on metal studs is a fast, light and clean way to divide a room. This guide covers a standard non-load-bearing wall with one layer of board on each side, from marking the floor to a wall ready for paint.
1. Check before you start
A drywall partition is not load-bearing: it must not carry any part of the building. Do not remove or alter existing walls without checking whether they are structural; when in doubt, ask a structural engineer. Use a detector to check for cables and pipes before fixing anything to the floor, ceiling or walls. Any new socket or switch inside the wall should be wired by a qualified electrician, following local rules.
2. Plan materials
Standard boards are 120 cm wide and 12.5 mm thick. Count the boards for both faces, plus U-shaped floor and ceiling tracks, C-shaped studs, screws, joint tape and joint compound. The Drywall calculator gives the number of boards, screws and the amount of tape and compound, and you can choose one or both faces.
Use moisture-resistant boards in bathrooms and kitchens, and fire-rated boards where required.
3. Fix the tracks
Mark the wall line on the floor, then transfer it to the ceiling with a laser or plumb line so the wall is vertical. Stick sealing tape under the tracks to reduce sound transmission, then fix the floor and ceiling tracks with suitable anchors about every 60 cm. Fix the end studs to the existing walls the same way.
4. Set the studs
Cut the studs about 10 mm shorter than the floor-to-ceiling height and twist them into the tracks. Space them at 60 cm centers, or 40 cm for tiled walls, heavy loads or a stiffer wall, so that every board edge lands on a stud. Frame door openings with doubled or reinforced studs and a header track.
Plan now where heavy items such as wall cabinets or a TV will hang, and add wooden blocking or extra profiles at those points.
5. Board the first side
Fix the boards vertically, tight to the ceiling, leaving a gap of about 10 mm at the floor. Use drywall screws about 25 mm long for single 12.5 mm boards. Space them roughly every 25 cm along the board edges and in the field, and keep them at least 10 mm from the paper-covered edges. Drive each screw just below the surface without tearing the paper.
Cut boards by scoring the face with a utility knife, snapping them, then cutting through the back paper.
6. Install services and insulation
Run cables through the punched holes in the studs and fit electrical boxes made for hollow walls. Fill the cavity with mineral wool to improve sound insulation; this makes a large difference between rooms. The Insulation calculator helps with quantities.
7. Board the second side
Board the other side the same way, but offset the joints by one stud from those on the first side so the wall is stiffer and does not crack along a single line.
8. Tape and finish the joints
Fill the joints between tapered edges with joint compound and bed paper or fiberglass tape into it. Cover the screw heads. Fit metal or paper-faced corner beads on outside corners.
Once dry, apply a second, wider coat, then a thin final coat feathered out to about 25–30 cm. Sand lightly between coats with fine abrasive and remove the dust. The aim is a flat surface where joints and screws are invisible after painting.
9. Prime and paint
Prime the whole wall before painting. Compound and board paper absorb paint differently, and without primer the joints show through. Then follow the steps in our wall painting guide; the Paint calculator works out the quantity.
Common mistakes
- Board edges that do not land on a stud, so the joints crack later.
- Screws driven too deep, which tears the paper and loosens the board.
- Aligning joints on both sides of the wall, which creates a weak line.
- Leaving the cavity empty, so sound passes easily between rooms.
- Painting without primer, which leaves joints and screw heads visible.
Frequently asked questions
How far apart should the studs be?
Usually 60 cm on center. Use 40 cm for tiled walls, double-layer walls that need extra stiffness or heavy wall loads.
What thickness of board should I use?
12.5 mm is the standard for walls. Two layers improve sound and fire performance.
How many coats of joint compound are needed?
Typically three: a bedding coat with tape, a filling coat and a thin finishing coat, each one wider than the last.
Can I hang a TV or cabinets on a drywall wall?
Light items can use hollow-wall anchors. For heavy items, add wooden blocking or extra profiles inside the wall before boarding.
How many boards do I need?
Divide the wall area by the area of one board for each side being covered and add a cutting allowance. The drywall calculator does this, including screws and tape.