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How to install laminate flooring: a step-by-step guide
Laminate is one of the most DIY-friendly floors because the boards click together and float over an underlay. Most problems, such as gaps, bulging and creaking, come from skipping acclimation, expansion gaps or floor preparation.
1. Measure and buy the boards
Measure the room and add 5–8% for cutting waste in a simple room, or 10–12% in rooms with many corners and doorways. The Laminate flooring calculator gives the number of packs and the length of skirting needed.
Check the boards’ wear class (AC rating) against the room: AC3 is typical for living areas, AC4 for hallways and busy rooms. Standard laminate does not tolerate standing water, so use a water-resistant product in kitchens and avoid wet bathrooms.
2. Let the boards acclimate
Wood-based boards expand and shrink with temperature and humidity. Store the unopened packs flat in the room where they will be laid for at least 48 hours, at normal living conditions. Manufacturers typically specify about 15–29 °C and 35–65% relative humidity.
3. Prepare the subfloor
The subfloor must be firm, clean, dry and flat; a common tolerance is about 3 mm over 2 m. Remove carpet, sand down high spots and fill dips. Fix squeaky floorboards with screws.
New screeds must be fully dry before you cover them. On concrete, lay a polyethylene vapor barrier (about 0.2 mm) with overlapped and taped joints, unless your underlay already includes one.
4. Lay the underlay
Roll out the underlay across the room, butting the edges without overlapping them, and tape the seams. Underlay smooths small irregularities and reduces footstep noise. Use the type recommended by the flooring maker; very soft or thick underlay can damage the click joints. Over underfloor heating, choose an underlay with low thermal resistance.
5. Plan the direction and the first row
Boards usually look best running parallel to the main light source or to the longest wall. Measure the room width: if the last row would be narrower than about 5 cm, trim the first row so both are balanced.
Place spacers along the walls to keep an expansion gap of about 8–10 mm on all sides, including around pipes and door frames. A floating floor must be free to move; without the gap it will bulge.
6. Click the boards together
Start in a corner with the tongue side facing the wall. Angle each board into the end of the previous one and lower it to lock the joint. Begin the next row with the offcut from the end of the previous row, as long as it is at least 30 cm long. This keeps the end joints staggered by at least 30 cm, which makes the floor stronger and looks more natural.
Engage the long edge first, then close any small gaps with a tapping block and a mallet. Never hit the board edge directly; the click profile breaks easily.
7. Cut around obstacles
Cut boards face up with a hand saw or face down with a jigsaw or circular saw, so the chipping is on the underside. Undercut door casings with a flush-cut saw so the boards slide underneath. For pipes, drill a hole 16–20 mm larger than the pipe, cut out a wedge, and glue the wedge back behind the pipe.
Fit the last row with a pull bar, and keep the expansion gap there too.
8. Fit transitions and skirting
Use transition profiles in doorways and wherever the floor meets another floor type. Very long or L-shaped rooms also need an expansion joint; check the maximum run length in the installation instructions, often around 8–12 m.
Remove the spacers and fix the skirting boards to the wall, not to the floor, so the floor can still move underneath.
Common mistakes
- Installing straight from the packs, so boards shrink or swell after laying and gaps or bulges appear.
- Leaving no expansion gap at walls, pipes and door frames.
- Lining up end joints, which weakens the floor and looks like a ladder pattern.
- Skipping the vapor barrier on concrete, which lets moisture swell the boards.
- Nailing skirting boards or heavy built-in furniture through the floating floor.
Frequently asked questions
How big should the expansion gap be?
Usually 8–10 mm at all walls and fixed objects. Larger rooms may need more; follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Do I need to remove old floor tiles before laying laminate?
Not if they are firmly bonded and flat. Fill wide grout lines if needed and use the recommended underlay.
Which direction should laminate run?
Parallel to the main window light or to the longest wall usually looks best. In narrow hallways, run it along the length.
Can I lay laminate over underfloor heating?
Many products allow it with a suitable underlay and a limited surface temperature. Check the product instructions before buying.
How many packs do I need?
Divide the room area by the coverage per pack and add 5–12% waste. The laminate calculator does this and also works out the skirting length.